All Chef Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.

Jeffrey Brewer
Jeffrey Brewer

A tech strategist with over a decade of experience in digital innovation and AI-driven solutions for global enterprises.